There's no such thing as a 'partially' house-trained dog Limiting options the key to a fix

By Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There’s no such thing as a “partially” house-trained dog. He either is or he isn’t.

Why is realizing this important? Because if you have a dog who is “sometimes” reliable, you have a dog who doesn’t understand what’s required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. Punishing your pet isn’t fair, and it isn’t the answer: You have to go back to square one and teach him properly. No shortcuts here.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have is really a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the past. You won’t be able to train your pet if he’s struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first for a complete checkup.

If you’ve ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.

You’ll need to teach your dog what’s right before you can correct him for what’s wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake.

Here’s how:

— Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him “no,” take him outside, and give him a command for going (“go now” or even “let’s hurry”). Then praise him for doing right, so he starts to understand what you want.
— Put him in a crate whenever he’s not on leash with you. It’s not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch — assuming, of course, that he’s getting his regular daily exercise.
— Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your “go” command, and praise him when he does as you wish. People never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them — they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!

If you’ve been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what’s expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don’t let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him “no,” take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your “go” command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won’t feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don’t punish him for any messes you find.

If you aren’t catching him, you’re not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

Active cats are happy cats Play equals exercise equals happy, fit cats

By Christie Keith

It’s easy to see why cats are such popular pets. Unlike dogs, they don’t need to be walked, usually come litter-box trained by their mothers and rarely dig huge holes in the yard — or bite the letter carrier. Unfortunately, in a lot of people’s minds this translates into “Cats need absolutely no care and exist just to sit on my lap and purr while I watch TV.”

Instead of living the challenging life of a hunter, our cats have food delivered to them on a predictable schedule. We rarely do anything to make up for their lack of mental stimulation, and we consider their natural behaviors, such as scratching and nocturnal play, to be behavior problems.

As a result, we’ve ended up with fur-covered, purring sofa cushions who are fat, flabby and prone to diabetes, kidney disease and boredom.

An exercise program will keep your cat happy and minimize health and behavior problems. But before you begin such a program, make sure there isn’t a physical reason for any feline misbehavior by scheduling a visit with your veterinarian. A cat who previously used the litter box and then stops doing so probably has a health — rather than a behavioral — problem. Cats who develop aggressive behavior later in life are also more likely to be sick than misbehaving.

Then think about where your cat spends his days. Your home might be cat-safe — but is it cat-friendly? Are there places for her to climb without knocking over your most precious tchotchkes or unraveling your drapes? A few strategically placed cat trees and a high shelf or two can do wonders for your cat’s mind and body. Climbing exercises your cat’s muscles, claws and mind.

Next, encourage play. Teaching your cat to play with you has a big payoff. Kittens who are conditioned to respond when their owners instigate play can be enticed to play when they’re adults, too. If you don’t train your young cat — and yourself — to incorporate regular active play into your relationship, your cat will probably not continue playing once he hits middle age, no matter what you do then. You can teach your kitten to play with you by using interactive toys, such as “cat dancers” and other fishing pole-style toys.

If you’re not starting out with a kitten but trying to enrich the life of an older cat, your invitations to play may be met with a disbelieving stare. If that happens, try breaking out the laser pointer. Laser pointers are wonderful toys for any cat and the only thing that will get some older cats to play. Be extremely careful not to shine the light into your cat’s eyes, and keep the laser away from children.

Lazy cats can be encouraged — OK, forced — to climb if their food bowl is moved to the top of the refrigerator or the highest platform on their cat tree. (Be sure your older cat is physically up to it before trying this.) Make your cat work for his food.

There are safe ways to give your cat fresh air and sunshine and allow him to pursue his lifelong interest in ornithology. Wired-in porches, window perches and outdoor enclosures are available as kits or can be custom built by a handy cat owner or contractor. There are also bird-feeding stations that can be mounted outside a window, so your cat can sit and watch the birds in safety — his and theirs.

No matter how old your cat is, no matter how out of shape, even if he’s too ill for any form of play, there is one thing you can do that will improve his quality of life and relieve the stress of boredom: Love him. Pet him, talk to him, cuddle him and hang out with him. Take him with you from room to room, feed him from your hand, tease him with catnip and groom him if he enjoys that.

Cats have given up a lot in the transition from tiny tiger to house pet. Don’t let your playful little tiger turn into a purring heating pad with a weight problem. And if your older cat already has gone that route, take steps to fix it. Your cat’s life — and your relationship — will be richer for it.

Hug your family, two- and four-legged both

By Gina Spadafori

September 18, 2009

We’re not going to be around much this weekend: The personal is just a little overwhelming right now.

You know my situation.

Here’s Christie’s situation.

And the rest of our gang is a bit overwhelmed with a lot of things as well.

We’ll see you back here on Monday.

In the meantime … below is a picture my friend Bob sent me of him with McKenzie and Woody (and friend Little Girl) on the river trails.

The good times pass too quickly. Enjoy them while you can.

Dog Allergies

By Daniel More, MD, About.com

Updated: July 09, 2009

About.com Health's Disease and Condition content is reviewed by our Medical Review Board

What are Dog Allergies Caused By?

The major dog allergen, called Can f 1, is primarily found in dog saliva. Unlike cat allergen, which is found in the dander from sebaceous glands in the skin, the skin of dogs does not appear to be a major source of Can f 1. Dog albumin, a protein found in the blood, is also an important allergen, and may cross-react with albumin from other mammals, including cats.

How Common is Dog Allergy?

Allergy to dogs is relatively common, as dog allergen can be found in public places, including daycare facilities. However, cat allergy is far more common, which may be related to the higher potency of cat dander as an allergen, as well as the fact that cats are not generally bathed at the same frequency as dogs. Regular bathing of pets, particularly dogs, would be expected to reduce much of the allergens released from the animal.

Are Dogs Really Man’s Best Friend?

Recent studies show that dog ownership can protect against the development of allergies in young children. This is due to endotoxin, a protein released from dogs (and other animals, particularly farm animals) that stimulates the immune system away from allergies. Infants living in homes with indoor dogs are far less likely to wheeze compared to infants living in homes without dogs.

However, it is important to note that endotoxin may also worsen allergies and asthma if present in the home after a person living in the home has already developed allergies or asthma.

How Can Symptoms be Controlled for Dog Owners with Dog Allergy?

For people with dog allergy, avoidance of dogs is the mainstay of therapy. Allergy medications are likely to help control symptoms, but in many instances symptoms may persist if the person owns one or more indoor dogs. Allergy shots may also be a good treatment option for people who are allergic to their pet dogs.

Dog owners may not want to part with their pets, despite the symptoms they endure. Short of getting rid of the dog, here are some ways to decrease dog allergen exposure for dog owners:

• Ensure the dog is neutered
• Bathing the dog at least once or twice a week
• Wiping the dog with a wet cloth or hand towel daily
• Remove the dog from the bedroom, close the bedroom door and air vents to the bedroom
• Keep the dog outside or in the garage, or in a part of the home with an uncarpeted floor
• Vacuum frequently with a HEPA-equipped vacuum cleaner
• Purchase a HEPA room air cleaner for use in the bedroom and/or other parts of the home (it is best to keep the HEPA filter off of the floor so as to not stir up more dust)
• Follow house dust mite avoidance precautions
• If the above measures do not help to reduce allergic symptoms, getting rid of the pet dogs may be needed, particularly for people with uncontrolled asthma.
• Dog allergen may persist for months to years in the home even after the dog is gone – therefore it is important to clean thoroughly
  • steam clean all carpets and upholstered furniture
  • launder or dry clean all bedding and curtains
  • vacuum all hard floors
  • wipe down all hard surfaces and furniture
  • replace any air conditioner and heater vent filters

Do Some Breeds of Dogs Cause Less Allergies Than Other Breeds?

Possibly. It appears that some people can be allergic to certain breeds of dogs and not to other breeds. While there is no such thing as a non-allergenic dog, some breeds can cause less allergies than other breeds. Here is a list of low-allergen dog breeds that may be better tolerated by people with dog allergy.

Call now to stop costly pet-killing bill in California

By Gina Spadafori

September 8, 2009

It’s looking likely that the California State Assembly will vote today on SB 250, a re-worked version of last year’s failed AB 1634, mandatory spay/neuter. This bill is bad for poor people, bad for their pets, and so loaded with punitive and downright regressive provisions that it’s hard to believe Democrats are falling in line to support it.

Why they do is no doubt because it sounds like it should make sense, and even address the reasons why straight-up mandatory spay/neuter went down in flames in 2008 — it looks, on the surface, as though it provides plenty of exemptions, and that almost anyone can get an unaltered pet license and keep it, as long as they don’t abuse or neglect their pets, or let them run loose all the time.

But in reality, SB 250 is mandatory spay/neuter with lipstick on. Its punitive provisions kick in on the basis of such minor infractions that it’s likely there are only a handful of pet owners in the entire state who haven’t violated one of them from time to time — leash laws, scooper laws, and so on. And if you do violate these laws, not only will you have to sterilize a specific animal, but you can lose your right to have an unaltered pet license for any animal, ever. Permanently.

Making this burden even worse for the poor, and presumably in response to outcry over just how much this was going to cost the state to implement, there’s brand new language designed to pass on the expenses of enforcing it to the pet owners themselves — who will have to pay a hefty load of fines and fees to get their pet out of the clutches of the state at all, plus, of course, pay for the sterilization surgery.

Which might make sense if not having your pet altered were a phenomenon of the pets of the rich who just couldn’t be bothered, but it’s not. The pets of people who make moderate to high incomes are already sterilized at near-universal rates, while only a little more than half the pets of the poor are sterilized. Of the unaltered pets, around half their owners say they want to sterilize their animals but can’t afford it and/or access it.

And while there are spay/neuter assistance programs in many urban areas, in the poorest parts of the state, and those hit hardest by the economic crisis, that’s not at all the case. (Central Valley, anyone?)

If you’re a California resident, please call your assemblyman now, and explain politely what’s wrong with this bill and ask for a NO vote on SB 250.

Why?

Approaches based on forced spay-neuter, whether as a blanket requirement or this bizarre “surgery as punishment” model, don’t work. Never have, anywhere. Not even in Santa Cruz. Everywhere it has been tried it has led to more dead pets and more tax-payer money spent. And yet, the misinformation continues, supported by well-meaning people who thinking mandating spay-neuter seems like it would work, and yes, a few die-hard haters who refuse to acknowledge that there is a gulf three oceans wide between what reputable, ethical breeders do and what puppy-milling scum do.

The people pushing mandatory spay-neuter also refuse to acknowledge what I have come to understand, as a person who has bred one litter and rescued, fostered, rehabbed and rehomed dozens and dozens of animals in my life: That we are all trying to do what’s best for the animals we love. Reputable breeders and rescuers alike (and mind you, they are often one in the same). That said, there are plenty of spittle-spewing haters on the extremes of both sides, people who seem to care more about winning than helping.

I have had my fill of them, both the “breeder is a breeder” hater and the black helicopter folks, too. Frankly, you should all be locked in a room together and someone should lose the key.

While some are busy pushing hate on the other side, others are trying to reduce killing for overpopulation by building on proven cooperative community-wide no-kill models. And we’re trying to get there by building on common ground. This is what works, not forcing the poor to give up their pets so animal control can kill more of them.

The idea of no-kill communities is catching on. In just the last few months, these changes from people who know about what works and what doesn’t:

• The ASPCA does NOT support mandatory spay-neuter.
• The HSUS has NOT come out in support of the latest version of mandatory spay-neuter in California. (I don’t CARE what you’ve read elsewhere: The HSUS is NOT IN SUPPORT of SB 250.)
• The AVMA does NOT support mandatory spay-neuter.
• Advocates for feral cats and no-kill solutions do NOT support mandatory spay-neuter.

Most of these organizations supported mandatory spay-neuter wholeheartedly not long ago. What changed? They saw that it doesn’t work.

The California Department of Finance does NOT support SB 250, either. They’re arguing just on the case of expense, which the state cannot afford.

And yet, because it “seems like a good idea,” last year’s AB 1634 has been recast as this year’s SB 250, and made even worse, since now spaying and neutering is a punishment for all pets, at the whim of animal control officers.

Who will be punished most? The people who are struggling the hardest to keep their pets. Studies show that more than 90 percent of people who can afford it already spay-neuter, and that more than half of people who cannot afford or get to spay-neuter services would have this done if they could.

Instead, mandatory spay-neuter pushes them to give up their pets, to increase the shelter killing. Since people love animals, they’ll pick up another pet, wash, rinse, repeat.

Read Christie’s earlier post on why no Democrat should be voting for this punishment for the poor. And yet, most are. The GOP has given this a party-line thumbs down, mostly because of the cost to tax-payers, I’d guess.

Call now.

Can someone drive a spike in this pet-killer bill?

By Gina Spadafori

July 15, 2009

Good news: SB 250, the pricey pet-killer bill, did not make it out of the Appropriations Committee in the California state Assembly this morning.

Bad news: It ain’t dead yet. It’s in the suspension file, which means it could come baaaaackkkkkk.

Best news: Party lines finally cracked, with a pair of Democrats catching a clue about how bad for pets forced spay-neuter really is. From Laura’s report on SaveOurDogs.net:

Two of the Democrats on the committee expressed serious reservations about the bill.

Assemblymember Mike Davis (D-Los Angeles) showed a very short stack of support letters and and very tall stack of opposition letters. Nice job getting those letters sent, it makes a difference!

Assemblymember Charles Calderon (D-Montebello) said: “I hope that legislators will STOP bringing these bills. They don’t need the state to get involved or to intervene. This bill may be about euthanasia … but … this bill just doesn’t die!!”

No, but pets are going to keep dying everywhere mandatory spay-neuter gets passed. It’s time to move away from laws that push people to dump even more pets. Representing L.A., Assemblyman Davis should be well aware what a disaster mandatory spay-neuter is there.

Can someone drive a spike in this pet-killer bill?

By Gina Spadafori

July 15, 2009

Good news: SB 250, the pricey pet-killer bill, did not make it out of the Appropriations Committee in the California state Assembly this morning.

Bad news: It ain’t dead yet. It’s in the suspension file, which means it could come baaaaackkkkkk.

Best news: Party lines finally cracked, with a pair of Democrats catching a clue about how bad for pets forced spay-neuter really is. From Laura’s report on SaveOurDogs.net:

Two of the Democrats on the committee expressed serious reservations about the bill.

Assemblymember Mike Davis (D-Los Angeles) showed a very short stack of support letters and and very tall stack of opposition letters. Nice job getting those letters sent, it makes a difference!

Assemblymember Charles Calderon (D-Montebello) said: “I hope that legislators will STOP bringing these bills. They don’t need the state to get involved or to intervene. This bill may be about euthanasia … but … this bill just doesn’t die!!”

No, but pets are going to keep dying everywhere mandatory spay-neuter gets passed. It’s time to move away from laws that push people to dump even more pets. Representing L.A., Assemblyman Davis should be well aware what a disaster mandatory spay-neuter is there.

Cat Scratch S.O.S

Scratching is a natural behavior for cats, no matter how it might impact the fabric on your $5,000 new sofa. You cat isn’t scratching to defy you - but he is sending you a message. That message is, “give me something to scratch!”

When his urge to scratch hits, he isn’t too picky about what to scratch. In the wild, everything is fair game. Your cat isn’t trying to damage your belongings. He’s trying to sharpen his claws.

In the wild, a cat might use a tree trunk or fence post for scratching. But since your living room probably lacks those things, the next best thing is something wooden, like the legs on your expensive new coffee table.

Declawing your cat isn’t the only way to protect your furniture. Instead of going to this extreme, set up a few standing scratch posts around your house for your cat to scratch. He’ll be happy to have his own scratching place - which is better suited to his needs anyway.

Scratching means more to your cat than just a way to tend his claws. Declawing your cat won’t stop the other natural reasons for scratching, like being playful. A scratching post is a great stress reliever for your cat.

Some cats use the post as a pretend playmate. They also have a need to conquer perceived foes. Your cat may take on the scratching post, gripping it with his claws and wrestling it into submission.

Make sure the post is anchored solidly. If the post is too easy to tip over, your cat may ignore it in favor of that nice, stable dining room table leg. If your cat plays with the scratching post when you’re home, but returns to the chair when you’re not around, you may have to resort to a trick.

Knowing that your cat has very keen sense of smell, hang bold fragrance room deodorizer or commercial cat repellant near the chair. Your cat will not enjoy scratching in that location anymore.

Place the approved scratched post in a location where the smell factor is neutral and where there’s some privacy so your cat can sneak up on the post as a pretend prey. When the scratching post looks worn out, don’t be so quick to toss it.

Instead, put the new post beside the old post until your cat starts to use it. After you see some wear on the new post, then you can throw away the old one.